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A Surf Tale

An account of surfing's thousand year voyage from the kings of Hawaii,
to the surfers exile from society, to the multi-billion dollar industry of today.

The Sun's radiation heats the upper atmosphere, sending the energy toward the earth's surface and finally mixes with the planet's counter-rotational currents, creating jetstream flows. The winds flow over the ocean's surface creating friction that spawns chops, pushing up the seas forming perfect bands of open ocean swell. Pushed on by gravitational forces, the swells speed away from the winds that they came from, moving across the deeps until they feel the drag of the shallows near the coast. As the swells rise up out of themselves, they peak, curling into the liquid dreams that we surfers ride (Kampton 4).
Surfing is not a sport, and no true surfer would ever claim otherwise. Yes, it requires all the essential elements of a sport; strength, discipline, balance and most of all practice but unlike a sport,......

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Approximate Word Count: 3362
Approximate Pages: 14 (250 words per double-spaced page)

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